happy_rooster
2004-06-06 23:06:12 UTC
http://www.philadelphiaweekly.com/article.asp?ArtID=6461
Russian Jews in Philadelphia celebrate the holidays with a mix of homeland
tradition and New World paradigms.
DOREE SHAFRIR (***@philadelphiaweekly.com)
"We do Hanukkah half-assed," says 20-year-old Olga Mamontov, whose family
moved to Northeast Philly from the former Soviet Union in 1988. Today an
estimated 50,000 Russians live in the Northeast and its surrounding
suburbs, but for the Mamontovs, there are no eight nights of presents or
dreidel-spinning parties. Like many Russian Jews, Hanukkah is just a
chance to get together with family. The kids may get some cash, but that's
about it.
Compare this to the typical American-Jewish Hanukkah, often an
extravaganza of gifts, latkes and gelt. (Gelt means money in Yiddish, but
these days it generally comes in the form of gold-wrapped chocolate
coins.) In the U.S., Hanukkah's been made roughly equivalent to Christmas,
much to the satisfaction of Jewish children around the country. But it's
one tradition many Russian Jews haven't adopted.
Of the thousands of Russians in the area, it's impossible to know how many
are Jewish, but of those who are, most consider themselves culturally--and
often spiritually--attached to Judaism. But their observance isn't
American-style.
Despite the fact that Jews weren't allowed to practice their religion in
the U.S.S.R., they were often persecuted for religious reasons. As Natalya
Mamontov puts it, "In Russia, we couldn't forget we were Jews. We were
always reminded."
In the U.S.S.R., says Olga's mother Natalya, synagogues were underground,
hidden from the government. So Russian Jews who moved to the U.S. didn't
bring a religious tradition with them. Many of them don't belong to
synagogues. Instead of partying on Hanukkah, Russian Jews get down on New
Year's.
"New Year's is like Christmas, but not affiliated with Christianity,"
explains Marina Serper, 23, whose family is from Moldova.
In the Soviet Union, a character named Grandfather Winter--complete with
red suit, beard and potbelly--took the place of the forbidden Christian
Santa. (The Mamontov family photo album features a young Olga on the lap
of a somewhat drunken-looking Grandfather Winter.)
Some Russians, even Jews, will put up a "New Year's Tree"--a pine tree
adorned with ornaments and with presents beneath it.
"Around the 26th of December, we'll put up the tree," says Irina Blyakher,
21. "It's mostly for the younger kids."
That's where the similarities between Russian New Year's and an
American-style Christmas end.
Forget mistletoe and egg nog--Russians really know how to party. Tucked
into strip malls all over the Northeast, restaurants with names like
Golden Gates, Melody and Kleopatra host birthdays and weddings and bar
mitzvahs and anniversaries year-round in their huge banquet halls. Though
parties are scheduled in advance, anyone can wander in on a Saturday
night, pay the $50 cover and partake.
There's the standard seven- or eight-hour multicourse meal, with new
dishes brought to the table every 20 minutes because, Serper says,
"Russians don't like buffets." After the appetizers, a live band comes
onstage, playing a combination of Russian pop music (think t.A.T.u. and a
wildly popular Russian band called Ruki VVerh), American dance hits and
Jewish classics. There's usually a set program, but individual songs can
be requested for $20 each. At intermission, there's a floor
show--sometimes drag, sometimes Las Vegas showgirls, always raucous.
Throughout, of course, there's lots--lots--of drinking. The drink of
choice is, naturally, vodka, either brought in or bought by the bottle at
the restaurant.
On New Year's, the extravagance just gets cranked up a notch (and gets
about three times more expensive). Partygoers' clothes are a little
fancier. The girls show more skin, and the guys' black pants might be a
tad tighter. The songs are more celebratory, though the standbys--"Hotel
California," "Lady in Red"--are always played.
On a typical night, the partying goes on until at least 4 a.m. As Serper
puts it, "It's a big party atmosphere. You're in for a whole night--a
night of work."
The other option for New Year's is more low-key. For the adults, several
couples gather at one house to party. Couples play pranks on each other.
Someone breaks out the guitar, and guests sing Russian songs. There's lots
of food, and many more shots of vodka. The other national Russian
drink--tea--is also consumed in large quantities.
If you finagle an invitation to a Russian New Year's party, it's a good
idea to bring a gift of some sort. Liquor is always welcome. There are
also lots of Russian gift shops scattered about the Northeast, often in
the same strip malls as the restaurants. Pick up a tea set, vase or, if
you're feeling especially thoughtful, a samovar. If you get invited to a
party at, say, Golden Gates, keep in mind that you're expected to
contribute to the cost of the party, so come prepared to pay at least $50
to your host.
Though you may never be a true émigré, you can still wish everyone a nove
gode--A Happy New Year--just like they do back in Moscow.
The Hunt for Red December
Navigating the Northeast like a true Russian.
Golden Gates Restaurant
The mother of all Russian restaurants. Book a party in advance, or try
your luck on a Saturday night. >> Philmont Shopping Center, 11058 Rennard
St. 215.677.9337
Melody
Russian restaurant and banquet hall. >> Leo Mall, 11729 Bustleton Ave.
215.673.2545
Kleopatra
Russian restaurant and banquet hall that's become popular with Americans
looking for a taste of Russian culture. >> 15005 Bustleton Ave.
215.673.3800
Bell's Market
The locus of Russian food shopping in Philadelphia. Lots of Russian cheese
and lunch meats, caviar, jars of pickled everything, boxes of chocolate,
pastries and Israeli food, in addition to prepared foods like pierogies,
stuffed cabbage and peppers, chicken Kiev and blintzes. A fun party food
is vobla, a fish you smack on the table, peel the skin off and eat with a
beer--kind of like a fish jerky. >> Bell's Corner, 8354 Bustleton Ave.
215.342.6016
Palace of Gifts
Russian gift shop with vases, coffee-tea sets, shot glasses, samovars,
crystal and perfume. >> Bell's Corner, 8340 Bustleton Ave. 215.728.7151
Stolovaya ("Dining")
No-frills low-key Russian restaurant. Serves inexpensive classics like
herring with boiled potatoes, borscht, latkes, varnechkes, pierogies and
stuffed cabbage. Order the mantu (ravioli with lamb) in advance. >>
Presidential Plaza, 9846 Bustleton Ave. 215.698.2584
Russian Jews in Philadelphia celebrate the holidays with a mix of homeland
tradition and New World paradigms.
DOREE SHAFRIR (***@philadelphiaweekly.com)
"We do Hanukkah half-assed," says 20-year-old Olga Mamontov, whose family
moved to Northeast Philly from the former Soviet Union in 1988. Today an
estimated 50,000 Russians live in the Northeast and its surrounding
suburbs, but for the Mamontovs, there are no eight nights of presents or
dreidel-spinning parties. Like many Russian Jews, Hanukkah is just a
chance to get together with family. The kids may get some cash, but that's
about it.
Compare this to the typical American-Jewish Hanukkah, often an
extravaganza of gifts, latkes and gelt. (Gelt means money in Yiddish, but
these days it generally comes in the form of gold-wrapped chocolate
coins.) In the U.S., Hanukkah's been made roughly equivalent to Christmas,
much to the satisfaction of Jewish children around the country. But it's
one tradition many Russian Jews haven't adopted.
Of the thousands of Russians in the area, it's impossible to know how many
are Jewish, but of those who are, most consider themselves culturally--and
often spiritually--attached to Judaism. But their observance isn't
American-style.
Despite the fact that Jews weren't allowed to practice their religion in
the U.S.S.R., they were often persecuted for religious reasons. As Natalya
Mamontov puts it, "In Russia, we couldn't forget we were Jews. We were
always reminded."
In the U.S.S.R., says Olga's mother Natalya, synagogues were underground,
hidden from the government. So Russian Jews who moved to the U.S. didn't
bring a religious tradition with them. Many of them don't belong to
synagogues. Instead of partying on Hanukkah, Russian Jews get down on New
Year's.
"New Year's is like Christmas, but not affiliated with Christianity,"
explains Marina Serper, 23, whose family is from Moldova.
In the Soviet Union, a character named Grandfather Winter--complete with
red suit, beard and potbelly--took the place of the forbidden Christian
Santa. (The Mamontov family photo album features a young Olga on the lap
of a somewhat drunken-looking Grandfather Winter.)
Some Russians, even Jews, will put up a "New Year's Tree"--a pine tree
adorned with ornaments and with presents beneath it.
"Around the 26th of December, we'll put up the tree," says Irina Blyakher,
21. "It's mostly for the younger kids."
That's where the similarities between Russian New Year's and an
American-style Christmas end.
Forget mistletoe and egg nog--Russians really know how to party. Tucked
into strip malls all over the Northeast, restaurants with names like
Golden Gates, Melody and Kleopatra host birthdays and weddings and bar
mitzvahs and anniversaries year-round in their huge banquet halls. Though
parties are scheduled in advance, anyone can wander in on a Saturday
night, pay the $50 cover and partake.
There's the standard seven- or eight-hour multicourse meal, with new
dishes brought to the table every 20 minutes because, Serper says,
"Russians don't like buffets." After the appetizers, a live band comes
onstage, playing a combination of Russian pop music (think t.A.T.u. and a
wildly popular Russian band called Ruki VVerh), American dance hits and
Jewish classics. There's usually a set program, but individual songs can
be requested for $20 each. At intermission, there's a floor
show--sometimes drag, sometimes Las Vegas showgirls, always raucous.
Throughout, of course, there's lots--lots--of drinking. The drink of
choice is, naturally, vodka, either brought in or bought by the bottle at
the restaurant.
On New Year's, the extravagance just gets cranked up a notch (and gets
about three times more expensive). Partygoers' clothes are a little
fancier. The girls show more skin, and the guys' black pants might be a
tad tighter. The songs are more celebratory, though the standbys--"Hotel
California," "Lady in Red"--are always played.
On a typical night, the partying goes on until at least 4 a.m. As Serper
puts it, "It's a big party atmosphere. You're in for a whole night--a
night of work."
The other option for New Year's is more low-key. For the adults, several
couples gather at one house to party. Couples play pranks on each other.
Someone breaks out the guitar, and guests sing Russian songs. There's lots
of food, and many more shots of vodka. The other national Russian
drink--tea--is also consumed in large quantities.
If you finagle an invitation to a Russian New Year's party, it's a good
idea to bring a gift of some sort. Liquor is always welcome. There are
also lots of Russian gift shops scattered about the Northeast, often in
the same strip malls as the restaurants. Pick up a tea set, vase or, if
you're feeling especially thoughtful, a samovar. If you get invited to a
party at, say, Golden Gates, keep in mind that you're expected to
contribute to the cost of the party, so come prepared to pay at least $50
to your host.
Though you may never be a true émigré, you can still wish everyone a nove
gode--A Happy New Year--just like they do back in Moscow.
The Hunt for Red December
Navigating the Northeast like a true Russian.
Golden Gates Restaurant
The mother of all Russian restaurants. Book a party in advance, or try
your luck on a Saturday night. >> Philmont Shopping Center, 11058 Rennard
St. 215.677.9337
Melody
Russian restaurant and banquet hall. >> Leo Mall, 11729 Bustleton Ave.
215.673.2545
Kleopatra
Russian restaurant and banquet hall that's become popular with Americans
looking for a taste of Russian culture. >> 15005 Bustleton Ave.
215.673.3800
Bell's Market
The locus of Russian food shopping in Philadelphia. Lots of Russian cheese
and lunch meats, caviar, jars of pickled everything, boxes of chocolate,
pastries and Israeli food, in addition to prepared foods like pierogies,
stuffed cabbage and peppers, chicken Kiev and blintzes. A fun party food
is vobla, a fish you smack on the table, peel the skin off and eat with a
beer--kind of like a fish jerky. >> Bell's Corner, 8354 Bustleton Ave.
215.342.6016
Palace of Gifts
Russian gift shop with vases, coffee-tea sets, shot glasses, samovars,
crystal and perfume. >> Bell's Corner, 8340 Bustleton Ave. 215.728.7151
Stolovaya ("Dining")
No-frills low-key Russian restaurant. Serves inexpensive classics like
herring with boiled potatoes, borscht, latkes, varnechkes, pierogies and
stuffed cabbage. Order the mantu (ravioli with lamb) in advance. >>
Presidential Plaza, 9846 Bustleton Ave. 215.698.2584
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