My take on the latest Rittenhouse Row chain-restaurant flaps

[Exile on Market Street]

In case you missed it in Monday's _Philadelphia Inquirer_:

http://tinyurl.com/4v2qy

(URL includes my registration for the site.)

Still can't read it? Let me know and I will post Thursday.

[Andrew Fenton]

Sandy,

Congratulations on the article; and for what it's worth, I basically
agree. I'm not particularly bothered by chains moving into Center
City: as far as I'm concerned, it just means more seats at non-chain
restaurants for the rest of us.

I'd note, too, that the chains have been very good about filling
niches that other restaurants have ignored. For example, suppose
you're looking for a Center City Italian restaurant that is
inexpensive to mid-priced; has a liquor license; and is kid
friendly. Not an outrageous combination, I'd think; but the only
option I can think of is Buca Di Maggiano's Garden. I'd say kudos to
them for filling a need... even if I'll stay away, thankyouverymuch.

There was a short but interesting discussion on this topic recently
over at eGullet:
http://forums.egullet.com/index.php?showtopic=45322

I'm going to post a link to your commentary on that thread as well.

-Andrew

[s***@temple.edu]

Post by Andrew Fenton
Sandy,
Congratulations on the article; and for what it's worth, I basically
agree. I'm not particularly bothered by chains moving into Center
City: as far as I'm concerned, it just means more seats at non-chain
restaurants for the rest of us.

It may also mean fewer mom & pop restaurants if the chain restaraunts
are displacing the local restaurants.

Post by Andrew Fenton
I'd note, too, that the chains have been very good about filling
niches that other restaurants have ignored. For example, suppose
you're looking for a Center City Italian restaurant that is
inexpensive to mid-priced; has a liquor license; and is kid
friendly. Not an outrageous combination, I'd think; but the only
option I can think of is Buca Di Maggiano's Garden. I'd say kudos to
them for filling a need... even if I'll stay away, thankyouverymuch.

Than again, the food at all the Center City chain Italitan restaurants
I have tried (except Olive Garden) is amazingly good, for a good value,
and these restaurants provide excellent service. Is that so bad?

[Andrew Fenton]

Post by s***@temple.edu

Post by Andrew Fenton
Congratulations on the article; and for what it's worth, I basically
agree. I'm not particularly bothered by chains moving into Center
City: as far as I'm concerned, it just means more seats at non-chain
restaurants for the rest of us.

It may also mean fewer mom & pop restaurants if the chain restaraunts
are displacing the local restaurants.

In theory, yes. But is there any evidence that that is happening? I
certainly haven't seen it.

My suspicion is that if any mom & pop restaurants lose out, it will be the
lousy or mediocre ones, not the really good ones. I can't really shed a
tear over them.

Post by s***@temple.edu
Than again, the food at all the Center City chain Italitan restaurants
I have tried (except Olive Garden) is amazingly good, for a good value,
and these restaurants provide excellent service. Is that so bad?

I don't think it's bad at all, and as I said, I don't have a problem with
these restaurants.

I did eat at Buca di Beppo with friends a few months back. I thought the
food was awful, and it wasn't an inexpensive meal, either. Given the
abundance of first-rate Italian in this city, I don't really have a reason
to go back.

-Andrew

[Exile on Market Street]

Post by s***@temple.edu

Post by Andrew Fenton
Sandy,
Congratulations on the article; and for what it's worth, I basically
agree. I'm not particularly bothered by chains moving into Center
City: as far as I'm concerned, it just means more seats at non-chain
restaurants for the rest of us.

It may also mean fewer mom & pop restaurants if the chain restaraunts
are displacing the local restaurants.

I do not think that is happening, and that's one reason I wrote the piece.
As I posted on alt.fan.kieran-snyder, a Quiznos--which I highly
recommend--is located just four blocks east of where I live, which hasn't
prevented a Planet Hoagie--which I *also* highly recommend--from opening
just around the corner from me. If a local operator wanted to replace the
Corned Beef Academy into whose former space Quiznos wants to expand, I doubt
the building's owner would have objected.

In the case of Bookbinders Seafood House, it had been widely acknowledged
for several years that the Bookbinder family had basically let this place
run down to the point where it was little better than John Taxin's Old
Original, only without the tourist-trap history to fall back on.

I too believe we should support good local restaurants--but the key word in
that phrase is *good*, not *local*. If a restaurant is going to be mediocre
or run-of-the-mill, it really doesn't matter to me whether it's a local
operation or a chain. Same goes, however, for an excellent restaurant,
especially one that fills an underserved niche. You may note that most of
the expensive chain eateries I listed in my essay are steakhouses or "surf &
turf" places. Prior to their arrival, *all* of the local entries in this
category either had died of osteoporosis (Arthur's) or were on terminal life
support (Hesch's, the weak successor to Frankie Bradley's). And their
existence has not prevented worthy local rivals (Striped Bass; Kansas City
Prime, in Manayunk) from flourishing. (The only reason Striped Bass closed
is because its then-owner was--and is--a poor money manager.)

Post by s***@temple.edu
Than again, the food at all the Center City chain Italitan restaurants
I have tried (except Olive Garden) is amazingly good, for a good value,
and these restaurants provide excellent service. Is that so bad?

Absolutely not! I've eaten at Maggiano's myself, and found the food
good--and the portions *huge*, which is usually a *chain* restaurant
phenomenon. (Although in the case of Italian eateries, you can find as many
local places that serve huge portions [Ralph's, e.g.] as you can chains.)

[Andrew Fenton]

Post by Exile on Market Street
I too believe we should support good local restaurants--but the key word in
that phrase is *good*, not *local*. If a restaurant is going to be mediocre
or run-of-the-mill, it really doesn't matter to me whether it's a local
operation or a chain. Same goes, however, for an excellent restaurant,
especially one that fills an underserved niche.

Sure, absolutely. The key, always, is whether the place is any good.

But in fact, for most of the eating I do, I find that my local options *are*
better. Take hoagies: you mention Quizno's, and I agree that they make a
pretty good sub. But they can't hold a candle to Chickie's or Sarcone's. If
they were a block away from me, well, that might make a difference; but as it
is, I'd rather go to Sarcone's. But that's because they make a better
sandwich. (Planet Hoagie I haven't tried, and will, one of these days. But
they're not especially convenient to me either).

One chain that I've been eating at a lot lately is Maoz Falafel at 3rd and
South. Great falafel, for cheap: $5 for a falafel sandwich stuffed with as
many toppings as you can cram in, plus fries, plus a fresh-squeezed orange
juice (!). That's a deal that can't be beat, I tell you what.

-Andrew

[Exile on Market Street]

Post by Andrew Fenton
But in fact, for most of the eating I do, I find that my local options *are*
better. Take hoagies: you mention Quizno's, and I agree that they make a
pretty good sub. But they can't hold a candle to Chickie's or Sarcone's.

If

Post by Andrew Fenton
they were a block away from me, well, that might make a difference; but as it
is, I'd rather go to Sarcone's. But that's because they make a better
sandwich. (Planet Hoagie I haven't tried, and will, one of these days.

But

Post by Andrew Fenton
they're not especially convenient to me either).

Haven't tried Sarcone's yet--and I pass it every time I go down to the
Italian Market to shop, even. But I usually try not to buy lunch on my
grocery run.

I'm not sure where Planet Hoagie gets its bread from, but it is excellent
bread. I have this vague recollection that the manager of the new Walnut
Street location told me it was Sarcone's, even--I'll check next time I go
there.

I actually consider Quiznos a different creature, even though they do offer
traditional hoagies (which, of course, they do not call hoagies). I have
yet to order one of Quiznos' traditional hoagies, because I can get better
locally (Planet Hoagie, e.g.). I do order the specialty sandwiches they
offer, though, because those I do *not* see at other places.

And while we're talking hoagies, ever tried Merlino's (15th and Ellsworth)?
Right up there with the best I've ever had--big, chock-full of everything,
and first-rate bread. A little pricey (they start at $6; most run about
$7), but worth it. However: you have to go there during the day--they
close at 4:30 p.m. or whenever they run out of bread, whichever is earlier.

Post by Andrew Fenton
One chain that I've been eating at a lot lately is Maoz Falafel at 3rd and
South. Great falafel, for cheap: $5 for a falafel sandwich stuffed with as
many toppings as you can cram in, plus fries, plus a fresh-squeezed orange
juice (!). That's a deal that can't be beat, I tell you what.

*Falafel* chains? *This* I gotta see. Where does this chain originate?

[Andrew Fenton]

Post by Exile on Market Street
Haven't tried Sarcone's yet--and I pass it every time I go down to the
Italian Market to shop, even. But I usually try not to buy lunch on my
grocery run.

Really, you should try them. Seriously. Sarcone's co-equal hoagie is
Chickie's (10th and Federal), which also uses Sarcone's bread.

Post by Exile on Market Street
I'm not sure where Planet Hoagie gets its bread from, but it is excellent
bread. I have this vague recollection that the manager of the new Walnut
Street location told me it was Sarcone's, even--I'll check next time I go
there.

I'd heard about the Sarcone's bread too. Gives them all kinds of street cred.

Post by Exile on Market Street
And while we're talking hoagies, ever tried Merlino's (15th and Ellsworth)?
Right up there with the best I've ever had--big, chock-full of everything,
and first-rate bread. A little pricey (they start at $6; most run about
$7), but worth it. However: you have to go there during the day--they
close at 4:30 p.m. or whenever they run out of bread, whichever is earlier.

I haven't tried them, but will add them to the list.

Post by Exile on Market Street
*Falafel* chains? *This* I gotta see. Where does this chain originate?

Amsterdam, of all places. They have a bunch of stores in Europe, and this is
their first US branch. They have a website, naturally:
http://www.maozfalafel.com/

While the fries are inconsistent, and the store layout is maddeningly
inefficient, the falafel and juice are terrific. All in all, it's definitely
worth a try.

-Andrew

[Botwinick]

This is their first US branch. They have a website, naturally:<A
HREF="http://www.maozfalafel.com/">http://www.maozfalafel.com/</A> the falafel
and juice are terrific. All in all, it's definitely worth a try.

0000000000000000

The place is kosher and run by an Israeli.

I think the <A HREF="http://www.maozfalafel.com/">falafel</A> is undercooked.

[James Andrews]

Post by Exile on Market Street
Haven't tried Sarcone's yet--and I pass it every time I go down to the
Italian Market to shop, even. But I usually try not to buy lunch on my
grocery run.

Now see, after all this time you've been here? Inexcusable.

Post by Exile on Market Street
I'm not sure where Planet Hoagie gets its bread from, but it is excellent
bread. I have this vague recollection that the manager of the new Walnut
Street location told me it was Sarcone's, even--I'll check next time I go
there.

I had planet hoagie once, when I was doing some consulting work in
Media. It was damn good.

Post by Exile on Market Street
*Falafel* chains? *This* I gotta see. Where does this chain originate?

Holland.

[Karen Y Byrd]

Post by s***@temple.edu

Post by Andrew Fenton
Sandy,
Congratulations on the article; and for what it's worth, I basically
agree. I'm not particularly bothered by chains moving into Center
City: as far as I'm concerned, it just means more seats at non-chain
restaurants for the rest of us.

It may also mean fewer mom & pop restaurants if the chain restaraunts
are displacing the local restaurants.

I don't think so! At least not for a while.

Have you been to S. Philly lately? Goodness... there's a bunch
down there!

KByrd

[Exile on Market Street]

Post by Andrew Fenton
Sandy,
Congratulations on the article; and for what it's worth, I basically
agree. I'm not particularly bothered by chains moving into Center
City: as far as I'm concerned, it just means more seats at non-chain
restaurants for the rest of us.
I'd note, too, that the chains have been very good about filling
niches that other restaurants have ignored. For example, suppose
you're looking for a Center City Italian restaurant that is
inexpensive to mid-priced; has a liquor license; and is kid
friendly. Not an outrageous combination, I'd think; but the only
option I can think of is Buca Di Maggiano's Garden. I'd say kudos to
them for filling a need... even if I'll stay away, thankyouverymuch.
There was a short but interesting discussion on this topic recently
http://forums.egullet.com/index.php?showtopic=45322
I'm going to post a link to your commentary on that thread as well.

Thanks for the post. I went ahead and registered for eGullet; I hope you
don't mind if I used your name as a referral, as I'd like to jump into the
discussion.

The original poster's comment highlights the "glass half empty/glass half
full" nature of this discussion. Had I the opportunity to write my essay
again, I would have added something encouraging us locals to point out the
good local alternatives to the tourists looking for something when we
stumble across them.

But as you--and some of the other posters on eGullet--point out, the chains
do fill one niche that the local entrepreneurs have *completely* ignored,
one that becomes increasingly important as more family tourists decide *not*
to make Philadelphia simply a way station on the road from Lancaster to
Atlantic City. That niche is the *family-friendly* restaurant.

Most of our talented local entrepreneurs aim their restaurants at a
sophisticated adult clientele. One eGulleteer noted that some tourists do
manage to make their way to Old City, but could you imagine Mom, Dad and the
4- and 6-year-olds dropping in for French fries at the Continental? Even
though the Continental has some of the best fries in town, its atmosphere is
not really conducive to bringing the kids along--nor is the atmosphere of
99.99999... percent of the restaurants in Old City. Which is not to say the
kids would not be made to feel welcome at many of that 99.99999... percent,
just that the restaurants are not run in a way that would naturally appeal
to their parents to begin with. I could see a family having a good time at
Eulogy, for instance, though they'd probably want to avoid the upstairs
dining area where diners eat on a coffin beneath an all-black Last Supper
painting. But their first impression would come from peering into the
windows, where they would see *no* customers who resemble them. For that
reason alone, I would argue that now, we *need* some of the chains we have.

[Andrew Fenton]

Post by Exile on Market Street
Thanks for the post. I went ahead and registered for eGullet; I hope you
don't mind if I used your name as a referral, as I'd like to jump into the
discussion.

It's a great site- in my opinion, hands down the best food website out there-
and I think you'll like it. Lots of good discussion. Not as much Philly
material as there is for NYC, but it's growing by leaps and bounds.

Post by Exile on Market Street
Most of our talented local entrepreneurs aim their restaurants at a
sophisticated adult clientele.

The irony is that there are lots of family-friendly restaurants in the
neighborhoods, places where visitors (even non-sophisticates with li'l nippers
in tow) could feel comfortable. But how often do tourists make it down to
South Philly or out to Port Richmond?

I suppose that the sky-high rents in Center City would make it tough for a
place like, say, Villa Di Roma to operate there. I'm talking _ex ano_ here,
but my guess is that in order to make it there they'd either need the
marketing/name recognition/economies of scale that a chain can bring to bear,
or pimp themselves up (and probably raise their prices).

-Andrew

[Exile on Market Street]

Post by Andrew Fenton
I suppose that the sky-high rents in Center City would make it tough for a
place like, say, Villa Di Roma to operate there.

Funny you should mention that old Italian Market standby.

Did you know the Food Network had it as its lunch stop when it did Philly on
"$40 a Day"?

Post by Andrew Fenton
I'm talking _ex ano_ here,
but my guess is that in order to make it there they'd either need the
marketing/name recognition/economies of scale that a chain can bring to bear,
or pimp themselves up (and probably raise their prices).

They probably would, but I wonder:

Would it be that difficult for some enterprising proprietor to offer the
sort of fare that, say, Moriarty's offers, only with the bar eliminated,
reduced in size or relegated to a separate room as at Villa di Roma? I
would actually characterize the pub fare at Moriarty's as having a broad age
appeal; many of the burgers and chicken dishes could easily be scaled down
to child-size portions. And Moriarty's already offers placemats that I'd
consider kid-friendly (50-state trivia quizzes, for instance).

[James Andrews]

Post by Exile on Market Street

Post by Andrew Fenton
I suppose that the sky-high rents in Center City would make it tough for a
place like, say, Villa Di Roma to operate there.

Funny you should mention that old Italian Market standby.
Did you know the Food Network had it as its lunch stop when it did Philly on
"$40 a Day"?

was mikey wild there?

[Exile on Market Street]

Post by James Andrews

Funny you should mention [Villa di Roma].
Did you know the Food Network had it as its lunch stop when it did Philly on
"$40 a Day"?

was mikey wild there?

I have this vague recollection he was.